Day 4 St Austell to Looe (East looe, West looe then back again)
mileage : 20 ish grammage : - 65 (discarded maps and eaten banana chips) stan the dog balls : 1 sore bits : still the heel!!
I noticed today my strange walking gait. I seem to start the day in a manner not unlike Kevin Spacey at the end of the film Usual Suspects where he walks out dragging his leg then moving into a limping mode before walking normally to jump in a car. For me the transgression from dragging my blistered foot not being able to put my heel down to walking in a similar fashion to a normal human being takes a bit longer...roughly about an hour and there is no car to hop into at the end. Later in the day i seem to adopt more of a Matt Damon style of walking, a slightly hunched stacatto strut....looks odd but makes for good progress. A day of ups and downs, my second water crossing at Fowey and pretty little settlements nestled between steep hills and inlets. Fowey and Polperro and , it would transpire, Looe all very busy with september tourists. Tonight i had no bed arranged and as i walked into Looe i began to ring the numbers on the numerous B&B boards swinging along the roadside. No room at the Inn it would seem.....or if there was room it was of course a double with a hefty single supplement. Beginning to think i might be trying out my sleeping bag in the bus shelter or taking up the kind offer of a holidaymaker to bed down in their caravan awning i saw one last place that was flying the Vacancies part of their Vacancies/No vacancies sign. With no phone number and about 450 steps to climb up to the place i nearly opted for the caravan awning but instead went for it and a slighty drunken landlady possibly running a house of dubious repute did offer me a cut price room with breakfast included for no more than the price of a fish and chip supper for two and if you slammed the bedroom door really hard the broken lock did finally close.
I had some chips and a kindly loaned from the fish shop mug of tea down by the water as the fairy lights of Looe illuminated the darkening river and thought 'life is good'
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Tuesday, 14 September 2010
Megavissey 4 : St Austell 7
Day 3 Truro/Devoran - St Austell
mileage: 22 grammage : +52 (new socks) balls for stan the dog : 0 - sorry stan, i did find a big blue football is that's any use to you. sore bits : left heel, right hip.
Found new socks this morning on the fringes of Truro, '1000 mile socks, guaranteed no blisters'...hmmmmm, a pretty tall claim i'm thinking. First water crossing today, the scenery had totally changed again, from the windswept heather moorland of lands end to the high ground and rolling hills of day 2 to some very green and lush tree covered landscapes and misty mossy glens much reminiscent of scotland. At Malpas i was informed a kind man would row me across the river for a meagre fare and if he wasn't there i should ring the bell so he would hear me from his quiet fishing spot on the other side and promptly row over a pick me up...this was very close to the truth and although the gentleman in question had upgraded to a small outboard on his small rowing boat this was still possibly the smallest passenger ferry in the world, at a push he could have probably only really managed 3 passengers and even less if they had luggage. Still he happily took me over the river for indeed a meagre fare and warned me i had a big hill to climb as i waved him off from the mossy river bank. It was a big hill with slightly less than wizkid sheeps occupying it. In their efforts to get out of my way sheep from a good distance away would actually run closer to me since it was apparent to them and them alone that they must all run in the same direction regardless of whether in fact that brought them closer to potential danger or not, It was ludicrous, they were behaving like sheep but i guess that was in their nature, being sheep an' all!
During the afternoon i became increasing despondent by the fact that despite walking in the direction of St austell for continuing minutes and hours it never actually got any closer. I passed a sign proclaiming Megavissey to be 4 miles away and St Austell 7 miles, yet despite walking on for easily 2 miles the next sign read the same, then after more long minutes and at least yet another mile the next sign still read the same.....i think i swore at it. Was i walking in circles? constantly on a perpendicular? or in some weird cornish bermuda triangle.
Incredibly stayed dry again all day....i have been blessed....despite heavy grey skies all day and monstrous black clouds building all around me as i approached St Austell in the late afternoon not a drop fell.....at least not where i was walking!
mileage: 22 grammage : +52 (new socks) balls for stan the dog : 0 - sorry stan, i did find a big blue football is that's any use to you. sore bits : left heel, right hip.
Found new socks this morning on the fringes of Truro, '1000 mile socks, guaranteed no blisters'...hmmmmm, a pretty tall claim i'm thinking. First water crossing today, the scenery had totally changed again, from the windswept heather moorland of lands end to the high ground and rolling hills of day 2 to some very green and lush tree covered landscapes and misty mossy glens much reminiscent of scotland. At Malpas i was informed a kind man would row me across the river for a meagre fare and if he wasn't there i should ring the bell so he would hear me from his quiet fishing spot on the other side and promptly row over a pick me up...this was very close to the truth and although the gentleman in question had upgraded to a small outboard on his small rowing boat this was still possibly the smallest passenger ferry in the world, at a push he could have probably only really managed 3 passengers and even less if they had luggage. Still he happily took me over the river for indeed a meagre fare and warned me i had a big hill to climb as i waved him off from the mossy river bank. It was a big hill with slightly less than wizkid sheeps occupying it. In their efforts to get out of my way sheep from a good distance away would actually run closer to me since it was apparent to them and them alone that they must all run in the same direction regardless of whether in fact that brought them closer to potential danger or not, It was ludicrous, they were behaving like sheep but i guess that was in their nature, being sheep an' all!
During the afternoon i became increasing despondent by the fact that despite walking in the direction of St austell for continuing minutes and hours it never actually got any closer. I passed a sign proclaiming Megavissey to be 4 miles away and St Austell 7 miles, yet despite walking on for easily 2 miles the next sign read the same, then after more long minutes and at least yet another mile the next sign still read the same.....i think i swore at it. Was i walking in circles? constantly on a perpendicular? or in some weird cornish bermuda triangle.
Incredibly stayed dry again all day....i have been blessed....despite heavy grey skies all day and monstrous black clouds building all around me as i approached St Austell in the late afternoon not a drop fell.....at least not where i was walking!
Chimneys and Chilli
Day 2 Cambourne - Truro/Devoran
mileage : a cool 15. grammage : -22 (discarded maps) stan the dog balls : 1
sorest bits : heel and toe heel and toe
Glorious glorious day. Set out in fine spirits and still able to walk when i got up this morning which was quite a bonus. Despite the monstrously large blisters enveloping my feet for now they were dry and the sun was once again shining as i bid my host and his wonderful dogs goodbye. Quickly gained some high ground at Carn Brea where an impressive stone monument stands and affords views of the entire width of Cornwall, i could see the sea on both sides (just abouts) Picked up the 'great flat lode' trail through rolling countryside of old mine buildings and chimneys which i could happily have followed the whole way to Spain, so well maintained it was. Later picked up another part of the same trail following the Truro river on down to Devoran. Devoran was such a beautiful place by the water and i was starting to get an idea of how lovely cornwall is. My second hosts Naomi and Mark also went above and beyond to look after me and i enjoyed a wonderful evening with more soaking in the bath, fantastic chilli, great conversation and yet more wine and cheese......how i wish every night could be like the last 2 and every walking day like this 1.
mileage : a cool 15. grammage : -22 (discarded maps) stan the dog balls : 1
sorest bits : heel and toe heel and toe
Glorious glorious day. Set out in fine spirits and still able to walk when i got up this morning which was quite a bonus. Despite the monstrously large blisters enveloping my feet for now they were dry and the sun was once again shining as i bid my host and his wonderful dogs goodbye. Quickly gained some high ground at Carn Brea where an impressive stone monument stands and affords views of the entire width of Cornwall, i could see the sea on both sides (just abouts) Picked up the 'great flat lode' trail through rolling countryside of old mine buildings and chimneys which i could happily have followed the whole way to Spain, so well maintained it was. Later picked up another part of the same trail following the Truro river on down to Devoran. Devoran was such a beautiful place by the water and i was starting to get an idea of how lovely cornwall is. My second hosts Naomi and Mark also went above and beyond to look after me and i enjoyed a wonderful evening with more soaking in the bath, fantastic chilli, great conversation and yet more wine and cheese......how i wish every night could be like the last 2 and every walking day like this 1.
Day 0 and 1 Spring bogs and Public nonpaths
day 0. lands end to sennen.
mileage 1.5 (i know i know, but i did walk from st just too) weight : 10.5 kilos no sore bits yet.
easy first evening as i strolled down to lands end backpackless with the late afternoon sun shining and the offshore breeze in my hair. Bloody camera broken already but manage to get random stranger to take my photo to prove i was there, still waiting for the pic.Not expecting any facilities in sennen i had had a dinner of hedgerow blackberries and my emergency double decker in waiting...lo and behold they had a costcutter store......bring on the fine dining pot noodle range!
day 1 proper sennen to cambourne
mileage 27 (whoa..too much) weight : + 75grams (trail mix purchase) sore bits : left shin, right hip. stan the dog tennis balls found : 1 and a half
big big day, great weather, set out fair bouncing along the lane to the shiny 'public footpath' marker post and off the beaten track i marched.....within 10 minutes i was shoulder deep in bracken, waist deep in brambles, knee deep in nettles and ankle deep in spring bog. Fighting my way around and around this small but imprenetrable corner becoming increasingly scratched and stung i pondered the fact that during my ongoing packing/unpacking/repacking process of non essential or 'unlivewithoutable' items never once did perhaps the need of a machete occur to me, and yet here i was and of all the tools on my back it would have been the only useful thing in that moment. Finally i conquered the field throwing myself across a small but deep ditch at the mercy of the moss soaked stone wall the other side and fell into the grassy meadow beyond. This did not bode well for the future of my time on Cornish footpaths. Striving on i found my way around a couple of farms who begrudgingly were observing the public right of ways to another farm where they were clearly trying to obliterate it from the face of ordnance survey.Continuing forward regardless i considered the more straightforward approach of utilising B-road Britain, the main draw of not walking on roads would be to enjoy the natural beauty of the unfolding countryside. Since my focus however was continuously on cowpat watch i was not really fully enjoying this aspect. The next field with it's acres upon acres on neatly laid out seedlings finally did for me with no way around or across or indeed through the river that lay on the other side if i even made it that far. As i stood revising my options i noticed the abundance of spent gun cartridges at my feet at almost the exact moment that sharp retorts rang out from a far too less than comfortable distance across the field. Needless to say getting shot at such an early stage in the walk would be a serious setback so i was fast scurrying to the nearest C road. Back on safe ground and now enjoying the wildlife (fox, buzzards, farm cats) i upgraded my plans to following bridleways since no one could surely build a 5 foot wall across a bridleway and still reasonably argue that it was a perfectly accessible public passage. This started quite idyllically till eventually of course the way was flooded....second foot soaking of the day for which i would later pay a high price.
After spending a grand total of £1.44 on quite a sumptious lunch from the Penzance Lidl (with plenty left over for the next day) i headed on to Hayle, footpaths widened, routes were clearer and dogs more friendly...all was well in the walking world. Walked the first bit of official Camino route (allbeit in a backwards direction)and saw my first scallop shell symbol, which was a very exciting moment (yes, this is what it has come to)It is true that such activities are 95% mental and 5% physical as passing Hayle i foolishly convinced my mind i was almost there which then of course sneaked this information to my body which quickly began to shut down as the last 4 miles stretched on, so with aching joints and the first clues of blisters i was so sure i wouldn't get began to strike i was hugely delighted to finally reach my first welcoming host for the night who then proceeded to spend the evening making me cups of tea, running me a hot bath, cooking dinner, giving me his daughters very comfortable room for the night and providing great conversation over a bit too much wine and some rather delicious cheese......ah, this walking lark is great after all!!
mileage 1.5 (i know i know, but i did walk from st just too) weight : 10.5 kilos no sore bits yet.
easy first evening as i strolled down to lands end backpackless with the late afternoon sun shining and the offshore breeze in my hair. Bloody camera broken already but manage to get random stranger to take my photo to prove i was there, still waiting for the pic.Not expecting any facilities in sennen i had had a dinner of hedgerow blackberries and my emergency double decker in waiting...lo and behold they had a costcutter store......bring on the fine dining pot noodle range!
day 1 proper sennen to cambourne
mileage 27 (whoa..too much) weight : + 75grams (trail mix purchase) sore bits : left shin, right hip. stan the dog tennis balls found : 1 and a half
big big day, great weather, set out fair bouncing along the lane to the shiny 'public footpath' marker post and off the beaten track i marched.....within 10 minutes i was shoulder deep in bracken, waist deep in brambles, knee deep in nettles and ankle deep in spring bog. Fighting my way around and around this small but imprenetrable corner becoming increasingly scratched and stung i pondered the fact that during my ongoing packing/unpacking/repacking process of non essential or 'unlivewithoutable' items never once did perhaps the need of a machete occur to me, and yet here i was and of all the tools on my back it would have been the only useful thing in that moment. Finally i conquered the field throwing myself across a small but deep ditch at the mercy of the moss soaked stone wall the other side and fell into the grassy meadow beyond. This did not bode well for the future of my time on Cornish footpaths. Striving on i found my way around a couple of farms who begrudgingly were observing the public right of ways to another farm where they were clearly trying to obliterate it from the face of ordnance survey.Continuing forward regardless i considered the more straightforward approach of utilising B-road Britain, the main draw of not walking on roads would be to enjoy the natural beauty of the unfolding countryside. Since my focus however was continuously on cowpat watch i was not really fully enjoying this aspect. The next field with it's acres upon acres on neatly laid out seedlings finally did for me with no way around or across or indeed through the river that lay on the other side if i even made it that far. As i stood revising my options i noticed the abundance of spent gun cartridges at my feet at almost the exact moment that sharp retorts rang out from a far too less than comfortable distance across the field. Needless to say getting shot at such an early stage in the walk would be a serious setback so i was fast scurrying to the nearest C road. Back on safe ground and now enjoying the wildlife (fox, buzzards, farm cats) i upgraded my plans to following bridleways since no one could surely build a 5 foot wall across a bridleway and still reasonably argue that it was a perfectly accessible public passage. This started quite idyllically till eventually of course the way was flooded....second foot soaking of the day for which i would later pay a high price.
After spending a grand total of £1.44 on quite a sumptious lunch from the Penzance Lidl (with plenty left over for the next day) i headed on to Hayle, footpaths widened, routes were clearer and dogs more friendly...all was well in the walking world. Walked the first bit of official Camino route (allbeit in a backwards direction)and saw my first scallop shell symbol, which was a very exciting moment (yes, this is what it has come to)It is true that such activities are 95% mental and 5% physical as passing Hayle i foolishly convinced my mind i was almost there which then of course sneaked this information to my body which quickly began to shut down as the last 4 miles stretched on, so with aching joints and the first clues of blisters i was so sure i wouldn't get began to strike i was hugely delighted to finally reach my first welcoming host for the night who then proceeded to spend the evening making me cups of tea, running me a hot bath, cooking dinner, giving me his daughters very comfortable room for the night and providing great conversation over a bit too much wine and some rather delicious cheese......ah, this walking lark is great after all!!
Tuesday, 7 September 2010
setting off!!
Thanks guys for all your support, what a great 80's/90's disco night we had, huge well done to Penny for organising everything! We raised £288 for the Walk Charities. I set off today......ooh errr......not without some intrepidation, all I have to do now is just keep putting one foot in front of the other.........several million times and i'll be there! Please follow this blog which will be updated every chance i get with raucous tales of getting chased across fields by wildly gesticulating french farmers i'm sure.
Thanks again to everyone who has sponsored me, anyone who hasn't please help, just a £1 will soon add up. Check out the website to sponsor me.
So today's the day and so far have no idea where i will be sleeping tonight.........my bag seems much heavier all of a sudden.
A special thank you to Chris and Lou Simmonds for their kind and generous support. You will keep me inspired during the 'lost in the fog, torrential rain, up to my knees in mud times' xx
i can't access the webpage now to update so will post the thermometer here, it is getting very close to the target now!!!! thank you all
Thanks again to everyone who has sponsored me, anyone who hasn't please help, just a £1 will soon add up. Check out the website to sponsor me.
So today's the day and so far have no idea where i will be sleeping tonight.........my bag seems much heavier all of a sudden.
A special thank you to Chris and Lou Simmonds for their kind and generous support. You will keep me inspired during the 'lost in the fog, torrential rain, up to my knees in mud times' xx
i can't access the webpage now to update so will post the thermometer here, it is getting very close to the target now!!!! thank you all
setting off!!
Thanks guys for all your support, what a great 80's/90's disco night we had, huge well done to Penny for organising everything! We raised £288 for the Walk Charities. I set off today......ooh errr......not without some intrepidation, all I have to do now is just keep putting one foot in front of the other.........several million times and i'll be there! Please follow this blog which will be updated every chance i get with raucous tales of getting chased across fields by wildly gesticulating french farmers i'm sure.
Thanks again to everyone who has sponsored me, anyone who hasn't please help, just a £1 will soon add up. Check out the website to sponsor me.
So today's the day and so far have no idea where i will be sleeping tonight.........my bag seems much heavier all of a sudden.
A special thank you to Chris and Lou Simmonds for their kind and generous support. You will keep me inspired during the 'lost in the fog, torrential rain, up to my knees in mud times' xx
Thanks again to everyone who has sponsored me, anyone who hasn't please help, just a £1 will soon add up. Check out the website to sponsor me.
So today's the day and so far have no idea where i will be sleeping tonight.........my bag seems much heavier all of a sudden.
A special thank you to Chris and Lou Simmonds for their kind and generous support. You will keep me inspired during the 'lost in the fog, torrential rain, up to my knees in mud times' xx
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